BAKERSFIELD CYCLING RESOURCE

WEEKEND RIDES:

Saturday, July 31

6:00 a.m. Beach Park     

Round Mtn. CCW >> the "Y" >> Granite Station >> Woody Crossover >> Beyond or Home

 
Sunday Ride 
7:00 a.m. Beach Park
route to be determined by consensus of riders
(often does the Zerker Loop)

MORNING RIDE OPTIONS
TUESDAYS and THURSDAYS @ 6:00 a.m. 
Round Mountain from Beach Park 
fast paced, returns to Beach by about 8:00 a.m. with early turn-around options
details below!


TUESDAYS and THURSDAYS @ 5:45 a.m.
behind RiverWalk Ampitheatre on the Bike Path 
fast paced, returns to RiverWalk by 7:15 a.m. with early turn-around options
details below!

DISCLAIMER
It should come as no surprise that the "ride call" is only an advisory announcement......None of us should feel obligated to do a particular ride, and other than the meeting place and time, the route will always be at the discretion of the riders in attendance.   Although generally the routes are predictable, the riders present reserve the right to modify their route, distance and pace in accordance with variables of schedule, mood, weather, riders in attendance and numerous other factors. Those riders can and will, on occasion, decide to modify their route mid-ride.
As such, do NOT depend upon the group to arrive at a specific location at a particular time so that you can join the peloton mid-ride.
The most reliable way to avoid missing the ride is to be at the advertised ride start location at the appropriate time.
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some useful links:

 www.bikebakersfield.org      www.kernwheelmen.org       www.661fixed.com      www.pactour.com

 

 

 

Little-Known Fact!

MAVIC
whose name is an acronym for "Manufacture d'Articles Velocipediques Idoux et Chanel", was originally founded by Charles Idoux and Lucien Chanel in 1889.  

"I hope it's a bloodbath and a cleansing . . . the beginning of the end for a lot of people." -- Greg LeMond in a cyclingnews.com interview, looking forward to the repercussions from Floyd Landis's accusations of doping by Lance Armstrong, other top riders and team officials.

Full Moon Ride

The full moon ride will continue through winter but they will be
starting at 6pm sharp. The Full moon ride will be meeting
at Beach Park going out to The Park at River Walk and back. 
For more info contact Tina at tina@bikebakersfield.org
NEXT FULL MOONS:
Aug 24, 2010 Tue
Sep 23, 2010 Thu
Oct 23, 2010 Sat
Nov 21, 2010 Sun
Dec 21, 2010 Tue
 

Product Rave!  
Camelbak's new insulated Podium Ice bottle
 This bottle is said to keep drinks cold about twice as long as other insulated bottles and 4 times longer than plain plastic ones. Generally, I am somewhat slow to adopt new products,  being a bit of a skeptic and not wanting to pay for the privilege of doing the manufacturers' R &D.  But in an unusual display of impulse, I recently bought some of these water bottles.  They aren't cheap at around $20 a bottle, but let me tell you, they DO work!!   On a ride of over 3 hours, the water was still cold at the end of the ride.   And the performance benefits, although probably negligible for me, are supposedly significant.   Cycling physician Gabe Mirkin, explains: "Drinking cold fluids lowers body temperature. More than 70% of the calories used to convert food to energy are lost as heat. So the more intensely you exercise, the more heat you produce. A rise in body temperature slows you down because the heart has to work harder to pump extra blood from your hot muscles to your skin to dissipate the heat. Seven studies show that cold beverages lower body temperature and improve performance by an average of 10%." 
I highly recommend these bottles; head down to one of our local bike shops and get yourself a pair of them!

(reprinted from roadbikerider.com)

My doctor recently told me I should get a colonoscopy.
My first concern wasn't "Will it hurt?" or "You're gonna stick a camera where?" No, I needed to ensure that this cancer-screening procedure wouldn't cut into my riding time.
 This, I think, is what separates cyclists from normal people.  
If you can identify with my tale, you probably do too.
 My colonoscopy was scheduled for Tuesday morning. The procedure is fairly painless. You lie on your side, ingest some good drugs, try to ignore what the doc is doing behind you, and watch a 20-minute TV show starring your colon.
 The problem is that you pretty much have to fast for 36 hours beforehand, and drink a nasty potion that forces you to become very familiar with the porcelain throne.
 So, when to ride? Tuesday's out, because you're either in surgery or recovering. Monday afternoon's out, because you have to be within sprinting distance of the bathroom. That leaves early Monday morning before work, assuming you can (a) ride on an empty stomach, and (b) recover from said ride without eating anything till midday Tuesday.
 Well, technically, you can have green or yellow popsicles (no red or purple) or Jello. Let me just say that popsicles and Jello -- will never replace MoonPies as my optimal recovery food.
 But I survived and barely missed a workout, so the procedure was a success.
Oh yeah -- I think the doc said something about me not having cancer.

The Skin Game

 NEW!.....GREAT WEBSITE THAT RATES SUNBLOCK PRODUCTS: http://www.ewg.org/2010sunscreen/

I have been a routine user of sunblock, but long-term exposure inevitably has led to what is termed “actinic keratoses”.  These are areas of the skin, which due to ultraviolet sunlight exposure, have undergone changes which can ultimately lead to skin cancer.  Having previously dealt with a melanoma scare, I am trying to limit the damage I’m self-inflicting. 

At my annual “mole patrol” visit with my Dermatologist, he explained that sunblock is essential to protect exposed areas from UV damage. Areas which have already been damaged might, over time, develop into skin cancer.  Treatment options include doing nothing (watching and waiting), local excision (removal) of skin lesions, and fluorouracil therapy.   

Efudex® (fluorouracil) is a prescription cream or topical solution which is used for the treatment of multiple actinic or solar keratoses.   It is placed on the affected skin areas daily for 2 to 4 weeks.  Typically, the initial manifestations of its action are reddening of the areas which have suffered the most sun damage.  This progresses to a rash-like effect that proceeds to erosion and peeling off of the damaged skin layer.  Ultimately, re-epithelialization (growth of a new skin layer) occurs, to replace the “bad” layer.

Adverse reactions are related to the pharmacologic (how the stuff works) activity of the drug:  they may include, but are not limited to, burning, crusting, irritation, sun hypersensitivity, itching, soreness and ulceration.  Sounds pretty nasty, doesn’t it!!

The advantage of this treatment approach is that it avoids the potential scarring associated with surgical removal of pre-cancerous skin areas.  It also does not depend on the diagnostic ability of the dermatologist to determine which areas to treat.  The medication “seeks and destroys” pre-cancerous tissues, even if they look normal to the eye.   The disadvantages are that it is uncomfortable, and you can expect that casual observers may wonder what happened to your face!  You’ll probably want to limit your non-essential social contacts for a week or two (it wouldn’t be the ideal time to get fixed up on a blind date…..actually if your date is blind, it wouldn’t really matter!).  You’ll likely want to limit your sun exposure. Generally, things get pretty much back to normal within 4 to 6 weeks from the beginning of treatment.  I wasn’t a real happy camper for about one week during the most sensitive phase of treatment, but now that my skin is healed, I’m pleased with the outcome. 

Most of us have no lack of sun exposure. Especially if you are fair-skinned, do your skin a favor and use an effective UV sunblock regularily on exposed areas.  And do yourself a favor...a yearly check-up with your physician or a dermatologist is a great idea!

FLY WITH YOUR BIKE?
If you fly with your bike, what can you do to protect your right to be compensated if it's damaged by the airline? (You'll never guess how the odds are stacked.) This important question is explored by cycling attorney Bob Mionske in his blog at www.bicycling.com.
JUSTICE SERVED?
This space has in the past carried some articles pertaining to "Bike vs Car" interactions/altercations.   There is an excellent overview of some significant cases, which should be required reading for those of us who share the road with motor-powered beasts.  Check out "Legally Speaking with Bob", a VeloNews column written by Bob Mionske, former National Champion (Road) and Olympic Cyclist and now Attorney. at www.tinyurl.com/yj8yeqf 

5 YEARS in PRISON!
That's the sentence laid on Christopher Thompson, convicted of assaulting 2 cyclists near Los Angeles by overtaking them and slamming his brakes. He admitted at the scene that he did it to "teach them a lesson" for riding 2 abreast and ignoring stop signs on the dead-end road where he lives. Said the judge in this widely followed case, Scott Millington: "Government must become aware of the dangerous conditions existing on our city streets and the threat of injury to cyclists." Said a tearful Thompson: "If my incident shows us anything, it's that confrontation leads only to escalation of hostility and not resolution. You cannot fix the problem if you are consumed with affixing the blame."
 
The incident happened in July of 2008 and put one of the riders head-first through Thompson's rear window, resulting in broken teeth and a nearly severed nose. Thompson, 60, faced a maximum sentence of 10 years after being convicted of mayhem, assault with a deadly weapon (his car) and other charges. It wasn't his first confrontation with cyclists on that road, which has a climb riders use for training. Read the velonews.com courtroom report at http://tinyurl.com/

Ebay Madne$$!
 pix of some of the gear recently sold:

 

        
   
I can sell YOUR unused cycling (and other!) stuff and turn it into CA$H for you!
email: velobob@aol.com

FIXED GEAR FEVER!! 
A new website/blog dedicated to the local fixie community has been launched, with the appropriate address of www.661fixed.com
Check it out; it's a great resource for the single-speed set!
Every sunday at 10am the fixies meet at the Chase parking garage downtown on Chester and have a group ride(fixed) and also have some fun just messing around practicing some Fixed Gear Freestyle tricks.

"It's as strong as Carbon Fiber"
If you're interested in the integrity of carbon-fiber bike parts, here is a website that may creep you out!
 www.bustedcarbon.com

 Website Mania!!!
A few relatively new websites are selling bike, outdoor and miscellaneous gear at deep discounts.  Our local retailers shouldn't worry much, though, because they typically only sell one product at a time. Not a real efficient way to shop for a particular item, but you can score some great deals!   www.chainlove.com and www.bonktown.com are selling closeout bike gear at a deep discount.   The limited-time availability forces people to act, so the gear sells lightning fast...Other websites to check out are www.steepandcheap.com (outdoor gear) www.woot.com  (tech and electronic gear)....watch for a "woot-off"!!! www.shnoop.com (oddball misc. stuff)  There are any number of other sites like these....if you find a good'un, let me know!!!
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BUILD a 'BOO BIKE!!
The Bamboo Bike Studio in New York City is helping people build their own 'boo bikes. About 80 cyclists are now riding their personal studio creations and classes are filled into April. "The ride itself is really smooth," says one amateur bamboo builder. "It eats up a lot of the vibrations of the road. I wondered if it might be too flexible or too mushy, but it's not. It's really nice to ride." A 'boo bike can be built from scratch in one weekend at the studio, which is also attempting to establish bamboo bicycle factories in third-world countries. Article at http://tinyurl.com/ybnfsxs

Road Ramblings
......heard in the Bakersfield peloton

STICKER SHOCK?
Bike Path/Kern River Parkway

It seems as if our atypically wet spring has sown an bumper crop of "goathead" stickers along the bikepath, especially in the stretch from Yokuts Park to Manor St.   Unfortunately, The "goathead sticker eradication program" did not work very well this year along the bike path. The plants got too big and they produced thousands of stickers before they were sprayed. Per farmer and cyclist extraordinaire Jim Crettol, the plants should have been sprayed when they first sprouted and definitely before they bloomed and produced prodigious stickers. The late spraying may have even made the problem worse. It killed the mature plants and the stickers hardened much sooner. Service trucks driving along the bike path and through the sticker plants pickup the stickers in their tires and distribute them along the bike path, waiting to sow their evil seed on YOUR bicycle tires!  Brother cyclist Earl Norcross has contacted Dianne Hoover, Director of City Parks and Recreation and Bob LeRude of County Parks and Recreation.  In the past, Bakersfield Recreation and Parks Department has always seemed to be very tuned in to keeping the Bike Path in optimal condition, so if you wish to make your opinion heard:
Darin Budak, City Parks Superintendent: dbudak@bakersfieldcity.us
phone: 326-3695
Dianne Hoover, Director City Parks/Rec: dhoover@bakersfieldcity.us
Bob LeRude, County Parks/Recreation :  lerudeb@co.kern.ca.us

PAC Tour Wisconsin
Just returned from a week of road cycling in rural Wisconsin with PAC Tour ("Pacific-Atlantic Cycling Tour").  Had a wonderful time, and did some quality riding in a beautiful setting.  We started in Beloit, which is just north of the Illinois border, and did a loop of southern Wisconsin.  Beautiful lush green rural scenery, well maintained roads, very little auto/truck traffic and, believe it or not, challenging climbing.  Approximately 29,000 feet of climbing in 500+ miles.  No epic climbs, but seemingly endless long rollers that you'd go down at 40+ and ride up the other side at about 7mph!  The weather miraculously cooperated and we did not get rained on once!  
PAC Tour offers the cyclists the ultimate cycling vacation.....they don't follow the flattest or easiest routes, but their tours are designed to offer the best cycling routes each day between motels and points of interest.  Cross-country cycling record holders Susan Notorangelo and Lon Haldeman's PAC Tour offers exceptional support and very reasonably priced packages for Arizona, Wisconsin, Transcontinental and even international tours.  Several of us Bakersfield riders have logged thousands of miles with them and can't wait to go again!   Check them out for a great cycling vacation. 
www.pactour.com 

      Tuesday/Thursday Mornings

Tuesdays and Thursdays at 6:00 a.m. from Beach Park
Very fast paced, returns to Beach Park by 8:00 with early turnaround options.   Tuesday generally does Round Mtn. CCW,  Thursday does Round Mtn. Clockwise.
(Bail-out options at Lake Ming overlook or top of Rd. Mtn. on Tuesday; Poso Creek on Thursday).

~~~another option~~~
  Tuesday and Thursdays at 5:45 a.m. from behind RiverWalk Ampitheatre on the Bike Path 
Tuesdays go towards Enos Lane
Thurdays go to BC and up the Bluffs
fast paced, returns to RiverWalk by 7:15 a.m. with early turn-around options
for more info: Michael_McCray@oxy.com

shameless promotion!

CARPINTERIA BEACH CONDO
 2 bdrm, 1 bath, sleeps 6. beautifully decorated surf/beach theme. TV's, VCR, DVD, High speed WiFi.  Ground floor unit with beach access 100 steps from patio!  Built-in patio bar w/gas grill perfect for relaxing and enjoying ocean, mountain, sunset views.  
Get out of the Bako fog in the winter, get out of the heat in the summer!
One minute walk to surfing/kayak/boogie boarding beach w/lifeguard & activities center. Slow paced town safe to let kids be kids, but Santa Barbara nightlife is only 10 minutes away. Complex has 2 heated pools & jacuzzi, security parking. Weekly/monthly rates vary by season.  Contact Velobob@aol.com.

GOLDEN EMPIRE CLASSIC
DISTRICT ROAD RACE CHAMPIONSHIPS
JUNE 5 and 6
From all reports, last weekend's racing was a resounding success!  Hundreds of racers participated in Sam Ames' very well organized event....many of Bakersfield's fastest flyers raced.   Jeff Simpson, Brian Monroe, Sam Ames, David Rous, Mike Noel, Richard Picarelli, Mike Hutson,  Courtland Keith, Brett Bonetti, Zac Griffin, Tyler Williams, MT Merickel, Glen Imke, Henry Pfister, Mike Marotta, Tom Morgan, Mike Perry, Ryan Rickert, Billy Foster, Bill Elrich and Gareth Feldstein, Mario Reyes, "Fast" Freddy Prado, Dustin McMillan, Matt Clark, Byron Rhodes, Jarett Kennedy, Jim Pappe and Mike McCray were amongst the participants.  (my apologies if I missed anyone!) This event has become a very popular date on the California racing calendar, and seems to grow every year.   Thanks, Sam, and co-director Earl Norcross for all your hard work and your crew of volunteers who made it all happen!
complete race results: http://www.bakersfieldcycling.com/2010/06/2010-golden-empire-classic-results/

 Scott, Bob and Leonard looking Official!

AMGEN 
TOUR of CALIFORNIA
Well, how cool was that!  We had the rare opportunity to host a world-class cycling event in Bakersfield, and from all reports, everyone...racers, spectators, and race organizers... was impressed.   I had the unique honor of serving as an Anti-Doping Chaperone, along with Jim Pappe, Scott Guerrero and Leonard Bidart.   Scott had Yaroslav Popovych (RadioShack) and  Leonard had Andy Schleck (SaxoBank) for random testing.  Jim was assigned the Stage Winner Peter Sagan of Liquigas-Domo and I escorted GC Leader Mick Rogers of Team HTC-Columbia.   Due to the very recent "coming out" of dethroned TDF Winner Floyd Landis, the UCI Anti-Doping Commissars are under extreme scrutiny to insure the security of their Anti-Doping Protocols, so our duty was to escort our assigned finishing racer from the finish line to the Drug Control Area.  Thankfully this was not a "hands-on" duty, but the opportunity to be up-close and personal with a World-Class Cyclist was an honor and a privilege!
The evening before the Stage 5 Bakersfield Finish, I had the pleasure of attending a Race Team dinner at the Visalia Marriot, along with Paul Verderber, Jay Rosenlieb and his two sons, as well as Scott Rosenlieb and Jim Duncan.   We dined (okay, it was a very casual buffet) with such notables as Mark Cavendish, George Hincape, Tom Boonen, Fabian Cancellara, Andy Schleck, Jens Voigt, Bobby Julich, Bjarne Riis, Francesco Chicchi, Stuart O'Grady and others.  Paul got everyone's autograph!   The high point of the evening for me was when Tom Boonen asked me for some advance details on Bakersfield's Stage 5 final climb up the Bluffs and into the finish straight!
(I advised him to go fast and stay at the front)

Cool Video!!
you've gotta check out these two women cyclists doing truly acrobatic stuff:
http://www.flixxy.com/amazing-bicycle-skills.htm

thanks, Franziska!

FRESH WATER AVAILABLE ON CLIMB
OUT OF POSO CREEK!!!

A good fellow by the name of Keith Stephens has plumbed drinking water down to the road at Granite Road & Amberhill Lane.It is on the last climb out of Poso going back towards town on the right hand (north/west) side. There is a street sign for Amberhill Lane, and the water spigot can be clearly seen from the road.
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OBSERVATIONS FROM JIM
by JIM PAPPE
I'd like to make some comments about our local group rides.
 
1. Aggressive riding, much like aggressive driving, begets itself. One person starts it, tempers flare, everyone sharpens their elbows and starts taking chances. This behavior has no place on these rides. If you want to do this, find a race to expend that energy.
 2. It's time we grow up and eliminate sloppy/unskillful/dangerous riding. I've been wanting to hold a skills clinic in Bakersfield for many years, and it's time we had one, and everyone in the group needs to attend. Witnessed most days: crossed wheels, sudden lateral movements, slowing/stopping for unknown reasons, standing up suddenly in the paceline and causing kick-back, putting wheels where they don't belong, riding in the wrong gears for the paceline, surging, taking the right of way instead of giving it, not pointing out hazards.
 3. Earphones. Wearing these during "our" rides shows complete contempt for the other riders around you. Want to be in your own little world? Do it by yourself on your own ride.
4.  Finally, it's a group ride, not follow the leader. Are you planning to time-trial during the group ride? Great--let us know so you can put in your earphones and ride off the front. This gives us the choice to socialize or to chase and a chance for everyone else to put their nose in the wind. Otherwise, see #4.

ROAD SURFACE ALERT!!
Hey, it's been fixed!  Well, maybe not yet...but, you can get your pet road defect attended to and repaired!  Give a call to KC Roads (862-8850) or City of Bakersfield Roads (326-3111) (depending on location/jurisdiction), and the folks there are usually very interested in trying to please.   My theory is that they toil on an endless list of projects and get minimal positive stroke for all their effort.   If we take the time to call about a specific issue, at least they know that someone cares about what they do!   Take the time and give them a call about that pothole, asphalt chunk, debris or dangerous spot on the roads!

Tip:
Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF
(the stuff is kind of a red color)
as some of you may know, a number of us local riders have ridden PacTour Desert Training Camp in Arizona.  At the conclusion of one day's ride, while cleaning/lubing my drivetrain, I picked up an unmarked bottle of chainlube.  I continued to use this lube through the rest of the week; At the conclusion of Camp, I asked PacTour director Lon Haldeman what type of lubricant it was.  He pulled out a quart bottle of Mobil 1 Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid and proceeded to explain that it possesses all of the qualities of an ideal chain lubricant!  All I know is that the stuff works!!
If you're going to use it, just make sure you wipe it off well after applying to keep it from slinging lube onto your rig.
It does work best, as do most all chain lubricants, when applied to a CLEAN chain.

Got some newsy items to share?
(race results, news from around town,  juicy gossip, etc.)
email:  velobob@aol.com

"THE SEATBAG" 
a compendium of useful cycling information

Peloton Details
by Joe Awe
Looking for a spirited ride? Training for a race? Raced in the past and want to use those bike handling skills you worked so hard on? This is your group.  

One unique feature of our group is the number of accomplished racers we have on any given day. World champs, a few national and lots of state champions in various disciplines are regulars on these rides. We also have a high number of ultra-distance racers here.  The RAAM 4-man relay record has belonged to Bakersfield between one of two teams for over a decade. 

During the week riders are up against schedules, thus many rides may find you fixing your own flat and riding home alone. These weekday rides roll out easy then the fun begins!  These rides have start times in the morning during the hot summer months, both to beat the heat and because there is light. And 12:20pm start times during the fall and winter. 

To be clear, these are fast rides for strong riders. These riders need to ride hard and fast to get their workout and these are the rides for that. Due to the speed and nature of these rides and their inherent danger, a rider lacking bike-handling skills may be approached and told of his deficits. This is born of self-preservation rather than a we-are-better-than-you attitude. These rides are done at close quarters and unless you are one of the truly strong, you’ll need to pace line to keep up. It is not uncommon to have 20-30 riders riding 20-30mph elbow to elbow.  If you need help….ASK! There will be someone happy to help folks interested in bettering themselves.  

A good rule of thumb for any ride, but especially these, is to talk to folks as the ride is forming up, let them know if you are new, if you have questions, or if you need help with bike handling etc. Each route has regroup points, ask and find out where these are and how long folks will wait.  If you don’t ask, the group will assume you know what you’re doing. This is where most fast groups get the reputation for being elitist snobs, they figure someone riding with them knows the route, the etiquette and has the bike handling skills. If you get dropped and didn’t talk to anyone, the group will think you chose to ride a different route or that you wanted to ride home alone. Speak up, make sure someone knows you may have trouble up a hill or down a hill and that you plan on doing the whole route, as with most things communication is king.

TIP
 fine-tuning derailleur and brake cables

You can tune your bike without touching a tool by using cable-adjusting barrels. Most modern road bikes have them. Look at the derailleur cable stops on the down tube and where the cable enters the rear derailleur. You'll probably see a round fitting ("barrel") that you can turn with your fingers. Same goes for each brake caliper where the cable enters.

 When braking becomes less responsive or shifts to larger cassette cogs are balky, it usually means cables have stretched. Simply screw the barrels counterclockwise to take up slack. Go half a turn at a time on the rear derailleur, then check shifting response. The chain should climb smartly to each larger cog. If it does but also tinkles against the cog's bigger neighbor, you're taken up a bit too much cable. Turn the barrel clockwise just enough to make it quiet.

 When done, you'll have tuned your shifting and braking as well as a pro mechanic -- and you may not even need to clean your hands.
Of course, if you don't want to bother (and keep your hands clean)...go see a pro mechanic!   We've got several fine bicycle mechanics at the local bike shops here in Bakersfield.

Product Recalls:

Felt model B12, B16 and S32 road bikes
Sold at U.S. bike shops from October 2008 through May 2010 for between $2,300 and $3,100. About 2,100 of these Chinese-made bikes are being recalled because their carbon fork's steerer tube can break, causing the rider to lose control and fall. Seven such incidents have been reported. Owners should immediately stop riding the bike and contact a Felt Bicycles dealer for a free repair. See photos of the recalled bikes.

To Stretch or not to Stretch?
(what a weird word...look at it..."stretch"...weird!)
That's always been the question among cyclists. A new study has come up with an answer, sort of: Yes!  Stretch if you like to stretch and want a small amount of defense against soreness and injury. No!  Don't bother if you don't have the time or interest. The study found that stretching does not reduce the overall risk of injury, although it can reduce the likelihood of certain injuries to muscles, ligaments and tendons. In addition, people who stretch have only about an 8% less chance of experiencing soreness than people who do not stretch. A summary of the study with links to greater detail is at http://tinyurl.com/mbk3ds

Why Can I Exceed My Max Heart Rate?

from www.roadbikerider.com

Q: According to the "220 minus age" formula, my maximum heart rate is 170 beats per minutes. I can reach this number whenever doing hard intervals. Not long ago, I got up to 173 bpm while being chasing up a hill. How come I'm able to ride at my maximum and even exceed it?

Coach Fred Matheny Replies:  Max heart rate is the greatest number of beats per minute you can attain during an all-out top-end effort -- like a sprint up a hill.

You can't hold max very long -- just a few seconds -- because your muscles and energy delivery system quickly tire.

 And, of course, it's logically and physiologically impossible to exceed your max. By definition, your heart can't beat any faster.

You're exceeding your calculated max heart rate because the "220 minus age" formula produces a number that is almost always wrong. It's accurate only by chance because it's a statistical average.

 There's only one way to find your max with certainty and safety:  By having a medically supervised stress test. 

In a lab setting, the technician will gradually increase the resistance on a stationary bike until you simply can't continue pedaling at the specified rate (usually 80-90 rpm) no matter how hard you try. The resulting heart rate will be close to your true max if not right on it. It depends on your motivation to push yourself 100%.

It's possible -- although not recommended -- to do your own test if you have a heart monitor. Ride faster and faster up a gradual hill. When you feel you absolutely can't go any harder, sprint! The highest pulse rate displayed will be close to your lab-determined max. 

Even riders in good health should have medical supervision during such a test, and they certainly should never do it alone. Realize too that sprinting all-out while trying to read the numbers on a heart monitor can be dangerous.

In the end, max heart rate isn't even essential for training purposes. It's much more important to know the highest heart rate you can sustain for 30-60 minutes. That's your lactate threshold (LT) heart rate. Generally, the closer you ride to it in a given workout, the more productive that day's training will be.

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 Make Roadside Repairs Without Tools!

 from www.roadbikerider.com
 
Ideally, you'll have everything necessary to remedy breakdowns. But when you get stuck without the item you need, heed the example of ultracycling legend Lon Haldeman. He claims he can fix any bike problem with materials commonly found on a short roadside walk. The fact that there is so much junk out there is as much a blessing (in this one instance) as it is disgusting.

At one of his PAC Tour cycling camps, Haldeman proved his assertion by hoofing a quarter mile out and back on an Arizona highway with a big plastic bag. Here's a list of what he collected -- and how to use such items for emergency repairs.
 
---Motor oil bottles.  Need some lube in a hurry for a squeaky chain or cleat that's driving you nuts? There's always a little oil left in the bottom of discarded containers. If you're caught in a hard rain that washes away your chain lube, this trick will return the sound of silence.

---Aluminum cans.  If your seatpost is slipping or your handlebar is rotating down, cut or tear a piece of soda or beer can to shore up the loose part.

---String.  If you've blown out a tube so a patch won't repair it, you can tie off the bad section with string and stuff it back into the tire. This tourniquet won't be airtight, but the tube should stay firm enough for you to make progress between each pump-up.

---Wire.  Use it to snug a rattling fender or accessory that's coming loose.

---Grass and paper.  If you've flatted and have no spare tubes or patch kit -- or your pump is broken -- pack the tire tightly with grass and anything else you can stuff in there. The biomass will provide enough thickness in the tire to protect the rim as you ride, slowly, to your destination.

---Plastic bags.  Emergency rainwear or frigid air blocker.

---Chunk of broken glass.  A suitably sized piece with sharp edges makes an emergency knife.

---Plastic cup or foil.  Use it to boot a slashed tire.

Keep your eyes wide as you search for the piece of junk you need. It's amazing what items of value you can find by the roadside. Wrenches, screwdrivers and other perfectly good tools bounce out of pickup trucks all the time.

Helmet Replacement

So, my helmet is several years old, but not completely uncool by helmet style standards. It appears to be in good condition. However, even though it hasn’t been damaged it in a crash or with rough treatment, I’ve heard that helmets lose some of their protective ability as they age. Should I junk this brain bucket and buy a new one?
The reason that some recommend that helmets be replaced every 3 years or so is that the foam degrades due to sun, heat, salty sweat and other environmental factors, added to the usual knocks of regular cycling activity. These things make the foam unable to provide full protection in the event of a head impact. Of course, it also is very much in the best interests of bicycle retailers and the helmet industry!
 Without question, a helmet should be replaced after it's smacked in a crash or even dented by a hard drop.  However, some experts (presumably those not working for helmet companies) maintain that a helmet will do the job no matter what its age as long as it's undamaged. In their view, there is no age limit. No question, a new helmet every 3 years will keep you current with comfort and safety features as well as style. Helmet lightness, ventilation and fit have definitely improved through the years; almost every new model has a "cradle" for the lower rear of the head. This makes a helmet more stable on bumps and rough roads, meaning that it'll stay in place better when the reason for wearing a helmet is happening.
Key point: whatever helmet you have….if you’re on the bike, wear it!

Eat, Drink and Be Wary in a Paceline

There can be a serious problem in a fast group on a long ride: You get so focused on sticking with the paceline that you're too busy, or too stressed, to eat and drink. Suddenly you're bonked, dehydrated and struggling to maintain the pace. This can even be dangerous because a tired rider is a squirrelly rider.

Here's how to keep the calories going down, even in close quarters with fast company:
---Do your dining at the back. When you're last in the rotation you can relax a bit and take on food and fluids without disturbing anyone. There's no one behind to get crashed by your movements or a dropped bottle.
---Use your bottle without looking down. Keep your eyes on the riders and road ahead. Grip the bar on top near the stem for stability, then use your other hand to grasp the bottle in the fat part just below the top. Put it to the corner of your mouth and raise it to the side so it doesn't obscure forward vision.

---If you think about the path your hand travels as you take out the bottle, it's relatively easy to reverse it without looking down. If necessary, use your thumb (grasping the bottle) to feel for the side of the cage. Then center the bottle and slide it in. Practice will make this automatic.

---Prepare your food for easy access. If you're comfortable riding no-hands, simply sit up when you're at the back, reach into a jersey pocket for your energy bar, open the wrapper and start eating. Hold it in one hand and put the other on the bar top near the stem.

---If you don't like to ride no-hands, open the wrapper before the ride. Then use one hand and your teeth to do the rest on the move.

Quick Tip:  
Control Inflation
Here's a little-known fact: Most bike tires can withstand 2 times the maximum pressure inscribed on the sidewall. (Don't be stupid enough to try it!)  Companies make them that way for a large safety margin. While that's interesting to know, it's not something that will benefit your riding. In fact, even inflating road tires to maximum recommended pressure will make them wear faster, cut more, corner worse and rattle your teeth.    For the most commonly used size, 700x23C, an inflation of 95 psi front and 100 rear will give you excellent performance, no matter how much pressure the sidewall says could be used. Heavy riders can go up 5 psi
or so in each tire to prevent pinch flats.         

Tire Rotation?
Should bike tires be rotated like car tires to extend their life?
Not really, but kinda…..
Smart rotation is to have your best rubber on the front end of the bike, which is the end that has the most to say about your staying upright…...When you install a single new tire, always put it on the front and rotate the older front tire to the rear. 
What's not smart is rotating a half-worn rear tire to the front in an attempt to keep both tires on the bike until they simultaneously wear out.  Don't make it easier to lose control because of a front-tire flat or blowout.
Perhaps more to the point is when to “retire” a tire?
Some guidelines:
1. If you can see cord or casing because of excessive rubber wear.

2. If you’ve had a succession of flats, get the message and replace the tire.
3. If there is a cut that needed to be booted to effect an “on the road” repair…..You can boot a cut from the inside with various things. A tube patch,strapping (filament) tape, duct tape are all handy to have in your seat bag.  A paper bill works well (a $20 is much better than a $1).  A boot is good to get home, but you really need new rubber! 
4. Riding on a dry, cracked tire,  no matter how little tread wear there is, is a bad idea.  Check for dryness when the tire isn't inflated. Pinch the tread and look for telltale cracks. Scrape your fingernail along the sidewall and watch for powdery residue.  Tires dry out from too much sun exposure or a dry climate, like I'm starting to do.  And from ozone exposure or Bakersfield smog or extended storage near an electric motor.   Armor All will prevent drying, but I'd be wary of putting anything that slippery near rims and brake pads. Remember, these are just bike tires, not works of art. Replace them if they're questionable.
 
NEWS FLASH!!  For you gals and guys who ride in a fast group or race, never do it on a compromised tire. A blowout in race conditions could put your life on the line (and the lives of riders around you).
If you can't race on good tires, stay home and earn enough dough till you can afford them.
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Patch This! 
 What's up with glueless patches?
Is there a limit to the number of patches (glueless or conventional) you can put on a tube?
Glueless patches have been around for several years and they seem to work just fine. The hard part is peeling the backing away.
Use the sandpaper provided or just wipe the punctured area with a clean rag to remove any tire talc. Remember to clean an area bigger than the patch.
Traditional patches, such as Rema, are a little messy because of the glue.
Use the sandpaper to gently rough up an area slightly bigger than the patch. Put on glue sparingly in an area slightly bigger than the patch (is there an echo in here?). Wait for the glue to dry! Peel off the foil and apply the patch.
The cellophane should then be removed, although some leave it on, claiming it keeps the patch from ever sticking to the inside of the tire.
Replace a tube once it has three or four patches. Otherwise, you're playing with house odds. Is the next flat a leaky patch, a new hole, or all of the above?
Carry a couple of new tubes in your seat bag. If you puncture, find the culprit in the tire, remove it and put in a fresh tube. Patch the bad one when you get home (don't forget) and put it in your bag.
I'll patch a flat during a ride only if I've used all of my spare tubes and my buddies' tubes as well.

Wheels of Misfortune

 (reprinted in part from www.roadbikerider.com)

At RoadBikeRider.com we've stated our opinion of low-spoke-count wheels a few times. We consider them "event wheels" and believe they should be used that way -- for special rides or races, not for everyday cycling or training.     In our view there are two main problems with event wheels (three if you count high price): 
---Spoke replacement.  Spokes are almost never the same among different wheel brands or even among different models from the same company. This means shops can't stock a complete selection and may not even have the required spoke tool. If a spoke breaks, the wheel may be out of commission for a few days while parts are on order -- or a few weeks if the wheel needs to be returned to the manufacturer for repair (it happens). 
    ---Spoke catastrophe.  If a spoke breaks, you may be out of commission too. The reason? With so few spokes supporting the rim, loss of tension in just one can make the wheel go wildly out of true.  The rim might jam against a brake caliper or a chainstay or your fork, causing an instant loss of control and a crash.
Spoke tension is important. Low-spoke-count wheels can be trued, but it needs to be done by an expert, not a ham-fisted home mechanic. Many amateur racers on limited budgets seem to think, 'I ride, therefore I am a great mechanic.' They ride on used stuff or buy some bargain basement crap online. Just cause it looks like a good wheel, doesn't make it a good wheel. 
When a customer brings in a wheel that won't stay true, the first thing a mechanic may look for is cracks in the rim at the spoke holes. We just replaced a high-zoot Bontrager rear wheel with that problem, ridden by a woman who's a strong recreational rider. The wheel had paired spokes with very high tension. 
One other aspect in this sea of wheel insanity is travel. I guarantee you that a little shop in Tuscany cannot fix your Zipp carbon wonder wheel, nor can they ever get parts. Many riders go to Europe or elsewhere for personal or commercial tours. It's better to take no-frills 'normal' wheels that Uncle Guido can fix, than to turn a cycling vacation into a component-driven disaster. 
I wish bike companies would put normal wheels on stock machines instead of event wheels. If someone wants the cool stuff, they can buy it in the aftermarket. Unfortunately marketing drives the industry more than practicality does. Every manufacturer is putting 'silly' wheels on their offerings."

We know some of you 24/7 event-wheel users can tell us tales of great reliability. That's how it should be for any wheel. But we don't like to gamble. 
For all-round durability coupled with good rolling performance, we recommend well-made 32-spoke wheels with a 3-cross spoking pattern. They were the standard for years and are still the best choice for recreational road cycling despite the proliferation of so many wheels with 12, 16 or 24 spokes. Save wear-and-tear on such wheels to preserve their reliability in events.  
Interestingly, Trek has introduced a wheel called Bontrager Classics.32 hole, three cross, with a sensible hub and rim. They'll cost about $600 per pair and are touted as the wheel the Team Discovery boys used for the spring classics (sew-up version).

Bike Care:  the Danger Zones

Danger Zone, pt. 1:  Bike Parts
 Several tips that can keep you out of the Danger Zone when it comes to part failures. Use this checklist to inspect your bicicletta: 
---Handlebar.  If you've crashed it and it's carbon, replace it. Now! You cannot see the damage a fall has caused because it's inside the bar. You'll notice many pros don't use carbon bars because they can't rely on them to stay in one piece after a fall. An alloy bar will generally bend before it breaks, and you can usually finish a ride safely. 
 ---Rims.  Look for small cracks around the holes where the spokes enter the rim. They won't usually result in a catastrophic failure, but they'll grow over time and your wheels will not stay true or round. 
 ---Hubs.  If a hub develops looseness for no apparent reason, the axle may be broken. It's rare for a front hub but not uncommon for a rear, due to the offset for the cassette. The quick-release skewer will hold the whole shebang together, so don't pull it out during a ride to investigate why the hub is wobbling, unless you have a lift home. Realize, though, that riding on a broken axle will ruin the hub's innards. 
 ---Saddle.  If your seat has titanium or aluminum rails and they are bent at all, they will fail sooner rather than later. Damaged carbon rails simply break without warning. Some failures are no big deal; others are gonna hurt like hell and it may be impossible to ride home (or have kids). Also check the underside of the saddle's shell. I've seen many a fractured saddle held together only by its cover and padding. A seat in this condition will be swayback, it might creak, and it should feel awful. 
 ---Seatpost.  Inspect the clamp at the top of the post. This is the most likely place for a failure. In most cases this top section is welded or bonded to the post. It's subject to heavy stress, especially if there is lots of setback and you're a big rider. Failure means the top of the post, with your seat, falls off. I can't paint a pretty picture of what comes next. "Wrecked him? Nearly killed him!"
 If you have a carbon seatpost and have distorted/crimped it by using too much clamp force where it enters the frame, replace the post ASAP. A break here is about as nasty as the clamp breaking off. 
 ---Crankarms.  If your shoe rubs either arm to the point where it's removing material from the crankarm, whether aluminum or carbon, replace the arm(s) without delay. Crankarms don't break in the garage, they break when you're putting lots of watts into them, as when climbing or sprinting. It happens without warning and usually results in a spectacular tumble when your foot, wearing the pedal and a piece of the crankarm, slams into the pavement. 
 Look at it this way: You live to ride (and I hope you love your bike as well). If you pay attention to the condition of each part on your machine and replace anything that's questionable, you minimize some of cycling's risk. It's a small price to pay for having the confidence that your bike is in tip-top shape.
 
Danger Zone, pt. 2:  Fork Failure
  As cyclists we're responsible for knowing the state of our equipment. Periodic bike inspection is an absolute must. A crash demands an immediate exam -- especially when there's been an impact involving the front end. 
The fork is probably the strongest single element of a bike. It takes a lot to damage one, but you must be absolutely sure all is well. After all, not much in life is scarier than a fork failure, and you don't want that on your mind -- like at descending speed. 
        Let's look at two main ways forks get broken.            
---Front Wheel Impacts.  This includes riding into a curb, into a nasty pothole, or into any other immovable object. You don't need to be going fast or even crash to ruin a fork. If you suspect it was damaged by a hard hit, get on the cell phone and call for a ride. Yours is over. 
 With a carbon fork, the damage may be internal and unseen. The fork must be pulled from the frame to check for injury to the steerer tube, the fork legs or the crown. A simple look while it's still in the frame is not enough. Take it out and put it under a bright light. 
 You're looking for cracks, dents, dings and bent or loose dropouts. Gouges, discoloration, peeling, delamination -- all spell impending disaster. So do buzzing sounds from inside the legs during riding. And then there's the tell-tale sensation that the bike doesn't steer or behave like it used to. If you lack the experience to do this kind of inspection, take your bike to the most experienced mechanic at your LBS. He/she might just save your life. 
 With a steel fork, a big frontal impact will generally bend the fork (or more likely the frame). I have seen steel forks bent to ridiculous angles, but I've never seen one fail catastrophically under a rider. That's a testimony to steel's ultimate strength and forgiveness.
  If you're riding on an aluminum fork you should have replaced it eons ago. Aluminum forks become mushy and flexible over time. I've never thought aluminum is a good choice for a fork. The only time I had a bike with one, I worried so much that I got rid of that rig after only two months. The fork was way light and it was good on rough pavement, but it seemed like an accident waiting to happen.
 ---Garage Calamities.  I hope this has never happened to you, but it's happened to plenty of tired riders driving home with the bike on top. One push of the garage door's remote button and in a nano-second . . . disaster! After calming down, you need to take the bike (and what remains of the roof rack) to the LBS. It's going to take time to check everything that could be damaged. If it's only the fork you were lucky in the extreme. Make your next stop at the auto body shop, then drop by the local construction contractor to arrange for a repair estimate. Don't forget to mention that the garage door no longer works.
 Never, ever take a chance on fork failure. Sure, a good bike's fork is expensive to replace. But that pales in comparison to the pain of a crash and cost of an ER visit.
  With our bikes it's the same. We must maintain our equipment and spend what it takes to replace anything that's questionable. Especially the fork.

Danger Zone, pt. 3:  Frame Fractures
Don't kid yourself. Your frame can break. Every frame can break. Doesn't matter whether it's made of "gonna last forever" titanium, ornately lugged steel, exotic carbon or ultra-light aluminum.
 But take heart -- very few frames do break, considering how many are on the road and being ridden hard. And even fewer come apart when you're JRA ("just riding along").

 That's because bicycle frames are an amazingly strong conglomeration of small tubes joined by the mastery of the builder. The fact that so few break is testimony to the strength of a design that has been around since the late 1800s. We may be building bike frames out of different materials these days, but the tried-and-true basics remain unchanged.

That said, you don't want to be part of even a small sad statistic. It's important to know how to check your frame for fractures that could lead to tube separation and possible injury on the road. Let's see how.

---The first step is to have a clean bike and keep it that way. Most frame failures begin as a hairline crack. How would you expect to find one under a layer of crud?  

---Remove the rear wheel to examine the dropouts and the tubes ("stays") they're joined to. This is one of the most likely places a crack will occur. Look closely at both sides of each dropout. Use a bright light so you can really see if that scratch is only a scratch.

---Follow the chainstays forward to where they join the bottom bracket shell. Check the chainstay bridge, the small tube that joins the chainstays behind the BB. Some frames may not have this reinforcing tube; on others it's a place cracks can develop.

   ---Follow the seatstays up to the bridge for the rear brake. This is a very high stress area, but is also over-built for that reason. Go up to the seat cluster. The top tube, seat tube and seatstays all join here. It's a complicated joint and requires extra care in building. Check it carefully. Other than an accident, the main reason for damage here is using a seatpost that doesn't extend far enough below the cluster. 
   ---Move to the front of the bike and examine the joints around the head tube. This is another area subjected to a variety of forces. If the bike has had a frontal impact (curb, dog, garage on a roof rack), look closely under the head tube end of the down tube. If it's bulged, cracked or discolored, go bike shopping.

  Now, most of this so far pertains to metal frames. It can be harder to spot a problem in a carbon frame. Carbon is unique in its amazing strength, but its natural color can mask signs of damage that do occur.  

 ---One sign of carbon tube failure is a rag getting snagged when you're wiping down the frame. Gouges, deep scratches or displaced paint need a serious look.   

   ---As with any frame material, if your bike starts handling strangely or develops mysterious creaking, cracking or popping noises, stop riding it and run the above checks for tube failure. 

 Don't be paranoid about your bike. The point is simple: Be diligent. Keep your bike clean. Inspect the frame, fork and other parts once a month or after any kind if mishap. By doing so you'll be safe, sound and out of the Danger Zone of hassles and injuries related to equipment failure.

Soft Pedaling
No, not a “smooth sale” marketing technique.  That’s the soft peddle….. what I’m talking about is the soft pedal!  Drafting is the essence of group cycling, but many cyclists don't do it as well as they could.  When riding in a paceline, and the gap between your front wheel and the wheel you’re following closes, the rookie/instinctive reaction is to grab the brakes.  But that should be avoided. Braking should be the last resort in a paceline or anytime another rider is close behind. It slows you too abruptly and might cause following riders to do what you're trying to avoid -- hit a rear wheel.  If wheels touch, the front rider will maybe feel a slight bump, but the following rider could be in a heap.  Perhaps you’ve had the opportunity to experience this phenomenon!   It takes better bike-handling skills than even many pros possess to stay up after front-wheel contact. Instead, soft pedal.

Here's how: Soft pedaling is the art of continuing to turn the cranks without applying power. You're coasting but it doesn't look like it. This should temper your speed just enough. As you drift back a bit, smoothly resume pedal pressure to maintain the gap.

Soft pedaling makes you much smoother than alternating coasting and pedaling. Not to mention how maddening that can be to the riders behind you. Suddenly stopping and starting your legs is a sure way to annoy your riding partners.  It’s also less efficient to be doing the “stop/start pedal dance” than to be spinning more fluidly by soft pedaling. When everyone in a paceline is always turning their cranks -- with power or without -- it's a thing of beauty.   Take a look at a pro peloton, and you’ll see what I mean.

Some other non-braking tips:
---Sit up.  As you soft pedal, this helps your body catch more air to reduce speed. In effect, your upper body is acting as a speed brake.

---Move slightly left or right.  Two benefits: It slows you quicker by putting you slightly out of the slipstream, and it makes sure wheels won't touch. Do it smoothly and minimally for the safety of riders behind. Then flow back in line and resume normal pedaling.

---Always ride at the very back of the group.  Since no one is behind you, your technique can be terrible and there won’t be any following riders to be bothered by it!

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DESCEND SENSIBLY
 
You've probably seen photos and videos of pros careening down European passes. Their butts are
on the top tube in front of the saddle. Their hands are grasping the bar next to the stem. Their chins are nearly touching the front wheel. 
Don't try it! This position may be aero but it's also extremely unstable. Pros can get away with it, but they can do lots of things we can't. 
You'll go almost as fast -- assuming you want to go fast -- and be much steadier if you use a sensible
technique. 
---Hold the crankarms horizontal.  Some riders like the right foot forward, others the left. It doesn't matter, so do what feels natural. 
---Scoot back.  Slide to the rear of the saddle and rise slightly so your weight is supported mainly by your feet and hands. But don't get totally off the saddle. Keep it between your thighs for control and stability. 
---Grip the drops.  Have your hands far enough forward so it's easy to reach the brake levers. 
---Alternate the brakes.  To keep speed under control, apply the front brake for a moment, then the rear.
Don't risk a blowout from overheated rims by dragging the pads down the hill. Still too fast? Sit higher so your body catches more air. 
---Squeeze your knees.  If your bike has a tendency to wobble on fast descents, let one knee (or shin, in the case of compact frames) rest against the top tube. If shimmy does start, clamp the tube between your legs. 
---Keep your head up.  If speed is your thing, you will need to be low to reduce wind resistance but, again, be sensible and don't overdo it. Comfort and safety are more important than another mph or two. 
---Think fast.  Look up the road and anticipate dangers. Is there gravel on that corner? A blind driveway? An intersection? 
Enjoy the thrill, but always remember: The faster you descend, the more margin you need for the unexpected.

You Light Up My Life

Over the past several years, I have repeatedly danced around the issue of purchasing a front bike light for riding in pre-dawn or after sundown hours.

A rear blinky light is fine to be seen from behind, but riding with a pathetic front light is not only stupid, it can be terrifying to feel as if one is riding blind.  Although frugality was a part of my lack of motivation to spring for a light, my main reluctance stemmed from an unwillingness to purchase a light which was unwieldy and used a heavy, proprietary, wired battery pack. Well, I discovered, thanks to peloton buddy Tom Morgan, the miracle of light!  I had noticed that he was riding with what appeared to be a mini-mag-type light mounted on his handlebars as well as on his helmet.  I was impressed how unbelievably bright each was and either alone would be totally satisfactory to illuminate the road ahead.  Tom explained that he uses both lights because he bike-commutes to work, and the helmet light is useful to “see” around corners, as well as to catch the attention of inattentive motorists.  A company called 4sevens makes a full range of flashlights, many of which are ideal for bike handlebar and/or helmet mounting.  They operate on standard batteries, either AA or 123 (photo battery), disposable or rechargeable.  They are compact, lightweight, built like a quality tool, and they are amazingly bright!!  You can check out their product line at www.4sevens.com.   I opted for the Quark 123² model which fits handily on my handlebars with a rubber and velcro mounting block.  It is totally adequate for my morning ride-to-the-ride commute and can be conveniently removed and placed in the pocket for camping, car use, or interrogating a suspect! Max power (190 lumens) run time is approximately 1½ hours, and on lower settings, run time is significantly longer. 

Whereas I used to tip-toe down the bike path at maybe 14mph in the pre-dawn dark, now I can ride at speed with plenty of light in front of me.

And those riders coming in your direction with what look like aircraft landing lights; now I am one of them!

from www.roadbikerider.com

Be a better cyclist!
Riding Tips

SURVIVE BAD ROAD SURFACES
 
---Seams and cracks.  When these run parallel to your direction of travel they can catch your front wheel. So be vigilant, particularly when entering a shaded section that makes cracks and seams hard to see. If your wheels become trapped, don't try to turn to the right or left. That's likely to make you crash. Stop pedaling and either continue in the rut until it ends, or jump the bike up and to the side to untrap the wheels -- a skill worth practicing because you don't want to be trying it for the first time in emergency conditions.
 
---Rough or broken pavement.  When approaching long sections with a gnarly surface, sit back, shift to the next higher gear, grip the bar top or brake lever hoods, and steadily pedal through. The slightly bigger gear adds resistance and slows your cadence so you can pedal smoother with less bike chatter.
 
---Painted lines.  They can be as slippery as ice when they're wet. Be wary entering any corner in urban areas where there may be painted crosswalks or other road markings. Slow down and do your best to cross them at a right angle with your bike perpendicular.
 
---Wet metal.  Anything metal and wet is ultra slippery. This includes manhole covers, plates, grates, metal bridge surfaces, railroad tracks and so on. Again, slow down and do your best to cross wet metal at a right angle with your bike perpendicular.
 
---Fallen leaves.  Leaves usually aren't a problem when you're riding straight through them (although they may cover potholes or other dangers). But in a corner, watch out. If there is wetness between the leaves, they can be slippery and cause you to slide down. In the off season when there are freezing temperatures overnight, what appear to be dry leaves can actually have frost between them or even an ice slick underneath.
 
---Gravel and sand.  When the loose stuff is on a flat section, use the same technique described for rough or broken pavement. When sand or gravel is in a turn, initiate your turn before reaching it. Then straighten the bike just before you cross. If your bike is upright on a slippery patch, it's less likely to slide out from under you. Once safely across, lean the bike again to complete the turn.
 
Tip!  Never hit the brakes while the bike is leaned over on any slippery surface. A braked wheel tends to go straight, so if you clamp on the stoppers while you're cornering, you'll almost certainly go down.

Cycling in Books

"The Lost Cyclist: The Epic Tale of an American Adventurer and His Mysterious Disappearance"
 Written by David Herlihy, it's the story of a young American named Frank Lenz, a national hero in the 1890s as he set out to ride his bicycle 20,000 miles (32,200 km) around the world. Somewhere in Turkey, Lenz disappeared without a trace. This 336-page book describes his journey and the efforts to find him. The Associate Press says, "Herlihy's gripping, fast-paced tale of larger-than-life cyclists and the era in which the bicycle came into its own . . .combines elements of a mystery thriller with those of a fascinating travel tale set in the historical context of a fast-changing world on the brink of the 20th century.  The book has numerous photos Lenz mailed from his trek. $15.60 at Amazon.com.

"Ten Points"
 A memoir by Bill Strickland
 In "Ten Points", Bill Strickland takes you further into the bodies, the heads, and hearts of serious cyclists than you’ve ever been before…but he does something far more important.  You learn about nightmare encounters with fathers and drugs, the tenderness of fatherhood, and why, in the end, the devil drives.
  A lifelong but decidedly average bicyclist, Strickland was challenged by his young daughter to score ten points in a series of weekly races dominated by pro racers, national champions, and legends of the sport.  He hoped that if he could achieve this impossible feat, he might similarly triumph over the indestructible demon that haunted his life. This book is brutally honest and beautifully written.....Well worth reading!!

Cycling in the Movies
"The Flying Scotsman"

   "The Flying Scotsman" didn't make it into many theaters, so your chance to see this cycling flick is to rent it thru Blockbuster or order it thru NetFlix.  The movie tells the story of Graeme Obree, a relative unknown who shocked the sport in the 1990s by breaking the world hour record and winning the world pursuit championship despite suffering depression. As far as bike movies go, the riding is pretty realistic although occasionally goofy. As far as dramatic movies go, it's generally thin on character development and motivation.  Nonetheless, it's still worth watching.

Thanks for visiting!